Hiking Paso de Cortés & Los Portillos
This route is a shortened version of the main hike to the
summit of Iztaccihuatl, Mexico's third highest mountain. I describe this as a stand alone route because I think it is a better option for most people than hiking to the top.
It is more accessible and less technical than the full climb to Iztaccihutal. Yet it is still a challenging and very high altitude route, which passes through the most scenic part of the National Park.
The hike begins at Paso de Cortés and climbs over four portillos (small peaks) before arriving at the Refugio de los Cien. From here the route returns the same way back to the start.
This is relatively safe, a lot of fun and generally a really enjoyable hike, with none of the stress or early starts that are needed with the full climb.
Route Description
| Start | Distance | Elevation Gain | Difficulty | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paso de Cortés | 19.3km | 1,100m | Challenging | ***** |
This hike begins from Paso de Cortés, which is the highest point of the road from Amecameca to Puebla. This was the route that Hernán Cortés took from Veracruz as he marched with his small army towards the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan (modern Mexico City).
The nice trail from Paso de Cortés
The first part of the trail follows fairly wide dirt trails in excellent condition. It is mostly through open scenery with fantastic views of Iztaccihuatl in front of you, and Popocatepetl behind. The gradient is mostly gentle for the first 6km as you head up towards a small campground called La Joya.
There are several differrent signed hiking routes here, but we follow the red one as far as La Joya.
Keep an eye out for small rattle snakes like this one
La Joya is a popular starting point for climbers looking to reach the summit of Iztaccihuatl. Many of them drive here and unfortunately miss out on the beautiful trails and scenery from Paso de Cortés
Approaching La Joya
After passing La Joya, the trail continues to be quite gentle for a few hundred metres, before pitching up sharply as you climb towards the Primer Portillo.
The first part of the climb to Iztacchihuatl from La Joya crosses four 'portillos' which simply means a little pass or crest on the trail. The section from La Joya to the Cuarto Portillo is around 3.3km (620m ascending), and is mostlly hiking on a dirt trail, sometimes with large rocks and occasionally with small stones or scree.
Popocatepetl
Technically it's all quite easy and straight forward. The trail is obvious and the gradients are generally not too steep.
Looking towards Iztaccihuatl
Crossing the Portillos is the most challenging part of this hike, with gradients sometimes reaching a challenging 30%. The portillos, however, do offer a small respite and a chance to recover, as well as fantastic views of the National Park and its surroundings.
To the right you can see the distinctive peaks of
La Malinche and Pico de Orizaba, and to your left there are occasional views of the Valley of Mexico, including peaks such as
Ajusco and
Nevado de Toluca.
Malinche and Pico de Orizaba
Shortly after the Cuarto Portillo there is a brief descent to the Refugio de los Cien. This is the higest refuge remaining on the mountain, and is meant to only be used in emergencies, such as if you get caught in bad weather or injured. Some people do plan to camp here, and there is a plateau where you can pitch tents, but it's not the most comfortable place.
This is the highest point of the hike. The path continues climbing from here to the peak of Iztaccihuatl, but it is more technical and dangerous from this point.
Cuarto Portillo & Refugio de los Cien
The return is along the same path, crossing the portillos to La Joya, and then follow gentle trails to Paso de Cortés. There are no major difficulties on the descent, just make sure you follow the trail correctly as there are some false paths, particularly around the portillos.
Following the trail back to Paso de Cortés
If you need to call a taxi or friend to pick you up, you can get an intermittent signal on the climb, and there is a spot next to some trees at La Joya which nearly always has reception. From there all that remains are the easy and very enjoyable 6km back down to the paved road at Paso de Cortés.
Overall, this is a really, really enjoyable route that is challenging, with fantastic scenery, but without too many technical challenges.
How to Get To Iztacchiuatl
Iztaccihuatl is easy to reach from Mexico City by car. Depending on traffic in the city, it normally takes around 90 minutes to get to Amecameca, and then another 30-40 minutes to drive up to Paso de Cortés.Public Transport
Reaching Iztaccihuatl by public transport is also possible, although, depending on your timings you may have to take a taxi or arrange a lift at some point.The first step is to get to the town of Amecameca, at the foot of the Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl National Park. From Mexico City you can take the Volcanes bus from TAPO bus station. This leaves roughly every 20 minutes throughout the day and usually takes about two hours. This will drop you off close to the main square in Amecameca. From here you can either take a taxi to Paso de Cortés (cost around 400 pesos), or wait for the Combi which leaves irregularly from nearby the bus station (ask around for which one goes to Paso de Cortés).
If you wish to make a prompt start then you will probably stay the night in Amecameca. In that case a taxi or a private transfer (several accommodations in Amecameca offer this), is your best option.
Evening View from Amecameca
To get back from Paso de Cortés to Amecameca, it is best to arrange your return in advance. I have found that the best option is to let a taxi or other transfer your rough time of departure and then send a message or call them to confirm the timing once you reach La Joya on the way down.
On the weekend there are plenty of cars hanging around Paso de Cortés and it is possible to hitch a lift, but don't count on this during the week when it is pretty quiet. The National Park guards at Paso de Cortés may take you down at the end of the day if you get really desperate, but it's best not to rely on this!
Parque Nacional Iztaccihuatl & Popocatepetl
The National Park is probably the most impressive natural site in all of Mexico, and one of the most spectacular in North America. Visible on a clear day from Mexico City, the two distinctive volcanos of Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl have long been part of Mexican folklore and mythology. Legends have often centred around Iztaccihuatl's feminine like appearence.The most famous Aztec legend recounts how Popocateptl (a powerful warrior) and Iztaccihuatl (a beautiful princess) were in love with each other. In echoes of Romeo and Juliet, Iztaccihuatl received false news of Popocatepetl's death and died herself from grief. When Popocatepetl returned he carried the body of his deceased lover outside the city where the gods then transformed both of them into giant mountains. Popocatepetl was simmering with both resentment and love, reflected in his continuing eruptions. While Iztaccihuatl was a peacefully sleeping lady. Indeed, the name Iztaccihuatl means 'sleeping woman' in the Nahuatl (Aztec) language.
The National Park as seen from Ajusco
The National Park is extraordinarily beautiful. It is not allowed to climb Popocatepetl due to instability of the area and regular volcanic activity, but Iztaccihuatl hasn't erupted since 1868 and contains numerous trails on its slopes. The most famous is the one outlined in this route to the top, but there are other beautiful routes around Paso de Cortés and from the town of San Rafael. On a clear day you can see across much of Central Mexico - including Mexico City and the surrounding valley, Pico de Orizaba and Nevado de Toluca.
Park Entry & Climbing Permits
Entry to the National Park is controlled by CONANP. If you wish to drive to La Joya or camp on the mountain it is obligatory to make an advance reservation. You can register with CONANP and apply for a permit using this link, but bear in mind that it's quite a convulated process. Also, if you plan to go on weekends then it's advisable to reserve a few weeks in advance, as it permits are limited and are often fully booked.
If you wish to just enter by foot then you should pay a small entrance fee at Paso de Cortés, but this is not really enforced and is more of an honour thing. The park (and barrier to La Joya) is open from 9am to 6pm during the week and 7am to 6pm on weekends.
You can enter the park by foot any time (if the CONANP office is closed when you plan to start, then you might want to let them know beforehand - it's advisable to register your presence for safety reasons).
View of Popocatepetl
Safety on the Climb
This route is generally quite easy from a technical point of view. It is a hike, with a small amount of light scrambling and no specialized climbing skills required as long as the route is free from snow (which it usually is). Of course, it is still a high mountain route, which reaches an elevation of around 4,700m, so it certainly requires a good level of fitness.If you want something even easier, then even hiking from Paso de Cortés to the Primer Portillo is very manageable and offers great views.
The Weather
As on any high mountain, the weather is an obvious hazard. I won't dwell on this too long, but as with any trip to the mountains check the forecast carefully. Ideally check multiple forecasts and assume the one that is the most pessimistic is accurate.You do not want to be climbing above the Primer Portillo in thick cloud - up until there the trail is quite easy to follow even in bad weather.
Most of this route is sheltered from the wind, but if there is rain or snow forecast, be cautious above La Joya.
High clouds like this are common on the peak, but pay close attention if they start to descend
Equipment
I find this hike to be perfect in trail running shoes, but hiking boots are also a good option. Trekking poles are not vital, but can be useful on the section from La Joya to the Portillos.There is not too much rockfall in this area, and the risk of falling is quite low so a helmet isn't as essential as it is on the full climb, but it is something to consider. No crampons or ice axe are needed on this route under normal conditions.
The Trail
The trail is mostly easy to follow. I recommend following the route on a GPS for added security, as there are a couple of places where you can get take the wrong way, particularly around the second and third portillos. But generally, navigation is not an issue here.The surfaces are mostly dirt or sand, turning slightly more rocky as you ascend higher.
Fitness & Altitude
Although this hike is considerably less demanding than the full climb to the peak of Iztaccihuatl, it is still a tough route at high altitude, with over 1,000m of elevation gain.Some acclimatizion is advisable, even if it just staying in Mexico City for a few days before hand. The good thing about this route is that it's easy to turn back at any time. You don't have the psychological pressure of reaching a peak, and so if you start to heavily feel the altitude or are very tired, then simply turn around and walk back down.
Mexico
