Hiking Iztaccihuatl
Iztaccihuatl is the third highest mountain in Mexico, peaking at over 5,200m. It is known as the sleeping woman due it's distinctive shape when seen from the east or west. It's a truly spectacular climb with fantastic views throughout, particularly of the nearby Popocatepetl volcano (see photo above), but also of the other highest peaks in the country.
Depending on your fitness, this route can be done in one day, or split into two days. Much of the climb is fairly straightforward hiking, but the top part can be quite demanding both physically and technically. Also don't underestimate the descent, which can take nearly as long as the climb.
This guide is mainly written for people intending to tackle Iztaccihuatl independently (solo or in a group without a guide). It's important to bear in mind that, although it's often a straight forward walk, the upper section can be dangerous in certain conditions and really shouldn't be undertaken without a thorough understanding of the mountain and the risks involved.
Lots of people attempt this hike independently who, to be blunt, are way outside their ability in terms of experience and fitness, and unfortunately deaths and serious injury are not uncommon here. Check out this section for more details about who should and should not attempt the climb.
For a still challenging, but less technical hike that offers the best views in the National Park check out this route from
Paso de Cortés to Refugio de los Cien.
Route Description
| Start | Distance | Elevation Gain | Difficulty | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paso de Cortés | 26.2km | 1,840m | Very Challenging | ***** |
This hike begins from Paso de Cortés, the highest point of the road from Amecameca to Puebla. This was the route that Hernán Cortés took from Veracruz as he marched with his small army towards the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan (modern Mexico City).
From Paso de Cortés it is possible to drive along a dirt road that climbs a bit further up towards Iztaccihuatl. This ends at La Joya, a small and basic camping area where many people spend the night before beginning the hike. I prefer to begin walking from Paso de Cortés and consider the 6km from there to La Joya was one of my favourite parts of the route. There are beautiful views on this section, including of Popocatepetl, which towers behind you. It also avoids the need to get any permits in advance.
The nice trail from Paso de Cortés
On my last ascent I set off solo at around 7:30 in the morning. Technically the National Park doesn't open until 9am during the week, and there is a barrier closing the dirt road to La Joya, but there is nothing to stop you from hiking on the trails at this time.
In fact, many hikers start the climb much earlier, at around 2am or 3am. It is a fairly common strategy in mountaineering circles to be crossing glaciers and peaking shortly after sunrise. The idea is that glacier conditions are most stable in the morning and there is also higher likelihood of storms in the afternoon. On Iztaccihuatl, these are factors to consider, but are perhaps not as significant as on many other climbs of similar altitude. Glacier stability, for example, can be a concern, but not so much due to snow warming throughout the day. When the glacier is low enough that snow shifts (and rock fall) are a threat to hikers, then you probably shouldn't be hiking here at any time of the day. In a similar vain, if storms or bad weather are forecast in the afternoon - you should probably consider if it's wise to be on the mountain at all. In such circumstances, it doesn't take a major change in predicted conditions or unforseen delay to put you in a dangerous situation.
This, combined with a hiking speed, as well as habit and tradition leads most mountaineers to start early here. But it does also add its own risks to consider: hiking for the first few hours in poor visibility, while sleep deprived, increases the risk of injury or getting lost. In my opinion, these risks are at least as significant as being caught in inclement weather, so you should weigh up the pros and cons yourself. You also won't be able to appreciate the fantastic scenery if it is dark during the first few hours!
When I started there was a beautifully clear sky and, being in the middle of the week, the trails were completely empty (they get quite crowded at weekends). I made good time andI had reached La Joya after about one hour, nicely warmed up for the bigger challenges to come.
Keep an eye out for rattle snakes until you get above around 4,500m elevation. There are quite a few in the National Park, and I nearly stood on this small one pictured below (I think it is a pygmy or dusky rattlesnake). It was so small that I doubt it could have bitten through my shoe, but there are also significantly larger snakes in the area, who like to bask in the sunshine.
Keep an eye out for rattle snakes
La Joya is not the most inviting camping area. There is no running water and nowhere to get food, and the cabins are very basic.
Some people stay here to acclimatize to the altitude (I don't think this is necessary if you live or have spent at least a week already in Mexico City), and others stay there to shorten the route to the top, or perhaps simply because they really like camping.
As I mentioned, I don't really think this is necessary for most people. It's only an hour walk from Paso de Cortés, and you will probably get a much better night sleep staying in a hostel or hotel in Amecameca itself. If the gentle extra 6km from Paso de Cortés is a deal breaker for you, then you should strongly consider if you have the fitness required for a hike such as this.
Approaching La Joya
After passing La Joya, the trail continues to be quite gentle for a few hundred metres, before pitching up sharply as you climb towards the Primer Portillo.
The first part of the climb to Iztacchihuatl from La Joya crosses four 'portillos' which simply means a little pass or crest on the trail. The section from La Joya to the Cuarto Portillo is around 3.3km (620m ascending), and is mostlly hiking on a dirt trail, sometimes with large rocks and occasionally with small stones or scree.
Technically it's all quite easy and straight forward. The trail is mostly clear and the gradients are generally not too steep.
La Joya Camping Area
In my opinion, crossing between these portillos is the most enjoyable part of the hike, and it's a shame that many people choose to do this in the dark. There are fantastic views of the top of Iztaccihuatl infront of you, as well as the iconic volcanic cone of Popocatepetl behind you.
To the right you can see the distinctive peaks of
La Malinche and Pico de Orizaba, and to your left there are occasional views of the Valley of Mexico, including peaks such as
Ajusco and
Nevado de Toluca.
Malinche and Pico de Orizaba
If you want to do an incredible and unforgettable hike in the Iztaccihuatl-Popocatepetl National Park, but without anything overly challenging or technical, then I highly recommend just hiking
from Paso de Cortés to the Cuarto Portillo and back. It is beautiful and rewarding, with little of the risk that comes as you ascend higher towards the peak of Iztaccihuatl.
Shortly after the Cuarto Portillo there is a brief descent to the Refugio de los Cien. This is the higest refuge remaining on the mountain, and is intended only to be used in emergencies, such as if you get caught in bad weather or injured. Some people do plan to camp here, and there is a plateau where you can pitch tents, but it's not the most comfortable place.
Cuarto Portillo & Refugio de los Cien
From the Refugio, the climb increases in difficulty. The path is visible in the picture above, ascending steeply up a scree slope, before some scrambling takes you to the Collado de la Esperanza and the Cruz de Guadalajara. Be very careful to follow the trail here as, by going off course, grade 2 and 3 scrambling can turn into much more dangerous climbing.
The Cruz (cross) is a monument to eleven students from Guadalajara who lost their lives here during a storm.
Primera Rodilla
There is another short but steep climb from the cross to the Primera Rodilla, which takes you above 5,000m altitude.
The Primera Rodilla (First Knee) refers to the feminine profile of the mountain when viewed from the east or west. And from here you will continue to the Segunda Rodilla (Second Knee), cross La Panza (belly) glacier and then ascend to the Pecho (chest) which represents the peak.
After catching your breath and admiring the views at the Primera Rodilla, there is a relatively easy section for a few hundred metres, crossing to the Segunda Rodilla and continuing towards Monte Venus.
Be extremely cautious if the glacier is like this - much of what looks like scree is actually black ice
Here you will be greeted by the Panza (ex) Glacier. I will talk more about the glacier below in the section on safety in the climb (and please do read this), but in short, crossing this can be very simple or quite treacherous depending on the conditions.
Usually in summer or early autumn (fall), the glacier is quite full and you can cross from Monte Venus to Ombligo very easily wearing crampons, with little loss or gain of elevation.
At some other times the glacier can be very thin, and this is when it is dangerous. There can be a lot of black ice and you will have to descend steep slopes into the belly of the glacier and then climb steeply back up again to Ombligo. The trails are frequently eroded and it's not that easy to follow.
I last climbed it in March 2025 and it was treacherous. There was plenty of black ice, rockfall and other hazards that required a lot of physical effort and decent technique to traverse, even with good quality crampons. If you find the glacier in these conditions (as it looks in the image above, my advice is to turn back and not attempt to cross).
Rolling climbs at the top of Iztaccihuatl
Once you have made it over the glacier to Ombligo, it is again pretty straight forward to the top. If there is snow or ice then you will need to keep the crampons on, but often the top part is clear and you can hike normally to the summit.
As you can see from the photo above, the last kilometre to the summit is kind of rolling with some short and fairly steep climbs, which take some effort above 5,000m.
From the Arista del Sol pass there is one final push up to the pecho (the summit).
Towards the Summit
Some climbers are slightly underwhelmed by the summit itself. Firstly, it's not entirely obvious exactly where the highest point lies. This is because there are a series of peaks at similar altitude (all above 5,200m), that form a kind of ridge around the volcanic crater.
However, despite this confusion, you are rewarded with stunning views in all directions. It can also be surprisingly warm for such high altitude, with daytime temperatures of between 5°C and 10°C not uncommon, particularly if the wind is light. The top is a kind of a small plateau, and with mild temperatures it's nice to stay for a while, and maybe even enjoy a picnic while admiring the panorama.
The true peak. The interesting topography can make it look like there are still higher points around.
It is important to take a bit of a breather, because the descent still requires some effort. There are some short climbs as you head back towards La Panza Glacier. If the glacier is high, then again you should have no problems walking across without too much climbing or difficulty, if the snow level is low, then it can be a very difficult climb back up to the Segunda Rodilla, that may require significant strength and perseverence.
Once back at the Segunda Rodilla the descent is steep and slippery all the way back down to the Refugio de los Cien. To be honest, I don't enjoy this part of the descent much. You can run and slide down some of the scree, but elsewhere it is only a thin covering on rock which makes it extra slippery, and so it's advisable to go slowly and steadily. You will probably be tired, so it's important to maintain concentration here, as well as double check that you are following the correct trail, or you can end up having to do some sketchy rock climbing or traversing.
From the Refugio de los Cien it's quite straight forward all the way back down. Pay particular attention to follow the correct trail after the climb up to the Cuarto Portillo, but then the way back down to La Joya is obvious.
Following the trail back to Paso de Cortés
If you need to call a taxi or friend to pick you up, you can get an intermittent signal on the climb, and there is a spot next to some trees at La Joya which nearly always has reception. Then, from La Joya, all that remains are the easy and very enjoyable 6km back down to the paved road at Paso de Cortés.
Overall, the climb to Iztaccihuatl is fun, challenging and hugely rewarding. For me the most scenic part is the lower slopes through the National Park, although the top section also has its barren charm!
Bear in mind that the top part can be dangerous, and that the route and elevation profiles are more of a guide here than something to be followed religiously.
To give you a rough idea of timings, here is a Strava link to when I last climbed in March 2025. The glacier was very low and the trail had been destroyed in places due to rockfall - leading to some diversions. As you can see this ended up adding considerable elevation gain to the route, and probably resulted in it taking an hour longer than it would otherwise. Due to the extra technical difficulty, the descent took a similar amount of time to the climb.
How to Get To Iztacchiuatl
Iztaccihuatl is easy to reach from Mexico City by car. Depending on traffic in the city, it normally takes around 90 minutes to get to Amecameca, and then another 30-40 minutes to drive up to Paso de Cortés.If you wish to drive to La Joya then it is necessary to apply for a permit in advance from CONANP (see below for details). The dirt road to La Joya is also usually only open from 9am - 6pm on weekdays and 7am - 6pm at weekends.
Public Transport
Reaching Iztaccihuatl by public transport is also possible, although, depending on your timings you may have to take a taxi or arrange a lift at some point.The first step is to get to the town of Amecameca, at the foot of the Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl National Park. From Mexico City you can take the Volcanes bus from TAPO bus station. This leaves roughly every 20 minutes throughout the day and usually takes about two hours. This will drop you off close to the main square in Amecameca. From here you can either take a taxi to Paso de Cortés (cost around 400 pesos), or wait for the Combi which leaves irregularly from nearby the bus station (ask around for which one goes to Paso de Cortés).
If, like me, you wish to make a prompt start then you will probably stay the night in Amecameca. In that case a taxi or a private transfer (several accommodations in Amecameca offer this), is your best option. If you have made the reservation in advance, taxis can also take you to La Joya as long as the road is open. But make sure to let the taxi driver know in advance, because some may not wish to drive on the unpaved road.
Evening View from Amecameca
To get back from Paso de Cortés to Amecameca, it is best to arrange your return in advance. I have found that the best option is to let a taxi or other transfer your rough time to be picked up and then send a message or call them to confirm the timing once you reach La Joya on the way down.
On the weekend there are plenty of cars hanging around Paso de Cortés and it is possible to hitch a lift, but don't count on this during the week when it is pretty quiet. The National Park guards at Paso de Cortés may take you down at the end of the day if you get really desperate, but it's best not to rely on this!
Parque Nacional Iztaccihuatl & Popocatepetl
The National Park is probably the most impressive natural site in all of Mexico, and one of the most spectacular in North America. Visible on a clear day from Mexico City, the two distinctive volcanos of Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl have long been part of Mexican folklore and mythology. Legends have often centred around Iztaccihuatl's feminine like appearence.The most famous Aztec legend recounts how Popocateptl (a powerful warrior) and Iztaccihuatl (a beautiful princess) were in love with each other. In echoes of Romeo and Juliet, Iztacihauatl received false news of Popocatepetl's death and died herself from grief. When Popocatepetl returned he carried the body of his deceased lover outside the city where the gods transformed both of them into giant mountains. Popocatepetl was simmering with both resentment and love, reflected in his continuing eruptions. While Iztaccihuatl was a peacefully sleeping lady. Indeed, the name Iztaccihuatl means 'sleeping woman' in the Nahuatl (Aztec) language.
The National Park as seen from Ajusco
The National Park is extraordinarily beautiful. It is not permitted to climb Popocatepetl due to the instability of the area and regular volcanic activity, but Iztaccihuatl hasn't erupted since 1868 and contains numerous trails on its slopes. The most famous is the one outlined in this route to the top, but there are other beautiful routes around Paso de Cortés and from the town of San Rafael. On a clear day you can see across much of Central Mexico - including Mexico City and the surrounding valley, as well as Pico de Orizaba and Nevado de Toluca.
Park Entry & Climbing Permits
Entry to the National Park is controlled by CONANP. If you wish to drive to La Joya or camp on the mountain it is obligatory to make an advance reservation. You can register with CONANP and apply for a permit using this link, but bear in mind that it's quite a convulated process. Also, if you plan to go on weekends then it's advisable to reserve a few weeks in advance, as it permits are limited and are often fully booked.If you wish to just enter by foot then you should pay a small entrance fee at Paso de Cortés, but this is not really enforced and is more of an honour thing. The park (and barrier to La Joya) is open from 9am to 6pm during the week and 7am to 6pm on weekends.
You can enter the park by foot any time (if the CONANP office is closed when you plan to start, then you might want to let them know beforehand - it's advisable to register your presence for safety reasons).
View of Popocatepetl
Safety on the Climb
In the route description I have mentioned quite a bit about the potential dangers of climbing here. I will reiterate again that the route is pretty safe and straight forward up to the Refugio de los Cien, but from there it is unpredictable. Most of this safety advice refers to the top part of the climb.I have read several reviews and blogs of people who have climbed solo or just with friends, who have had good conditions and have perhaps been unaware or have undersold some of the potential dangers. So I feel like it is important to talk about these in a some depth.
The Weather
As on any high mountain, the weather is an obvious hazard. I won't dwell on this too long, but as with any trip to the mountains check the forecast carefully. Ideally check multiple forecasts and assume the one that is the most pessimistic is accurate.You do not want to be on the top of Iztaccihuatl in thick cloud. If you stick to the trail then there are few precipitous drops or narrow edges, but you don't have to leave the trail by more than a few metres to find yourself in a much more precarious situation - having good visibility is key. High cloud (like in some of the photos above) is not a problem.
The wind can get very strong at times and, while it is very unlikely to blow you off the edge, it can make it extremely cold. Don't underestimate how much this not only causes discomfort, but can sap your energy levels and reduce your concentration.
It probably goes without saying, but don't plan on climbing much above La Joya if significant snow or rain are forecast.
High clouds like this are common on the peak, but pay close attention if they start to descend
Equipment
I do this hike in trail running shoes. They have reasonable grip but limited ankle support, so are fast and light, but also a bit more risky than full hiking boots. I find the trail runners perfect for climbing, but a bit slippery on the descent - overall though I'm happy with them. You don't need mountaineering boots for this climb, they would be too slow and cumbersome for 95% of the route.Crampons are necessary for crossing the glacier. In the summer, or when the glacier is high, micro spikes might be sufficient, but I wouldn't count on it. When the glacier is low and there is black ice, if you want to continue, an ice axe is also advisable. Some guides use ropes in certain conditions. I don't really think this is necessary except maybe in thick cloud (when you shouldn't be up there anyway), but I understand why guides are very cautious with clients whose technical ability they have little idea about.
From the Refugio de los Cien until pretty much the top of the climb I recommend wearing a helmet. I rarely wear a helmet when hiking, but it's just common sense here. Rockfall is very common, particularly if you climb on a weekend when the trail is busier with other hikers. On the descent you will also probably slip and slide a few times and so the helmet offers protection from the rocks.
Hiking poles are very useful, although you might have to put them away during sections of scrambling.
The Trail
The trail is pretty easy to follow for the most part, although a GPS device is highly advisable if you go independently. There are some false trails that it's easy to accidentally follow if you are not paying attention, and these will often lead abruptly to some technical scrambling or climbing.On the top part, at both the glacier and the scree, it's possible that the trail has completely eroded away and you will have to plot your own route across. Likewise, when scrambling you will sometimes have to pick your own route - keep focused above on where you want to go to avoid getting too far off course.
Panza Glacier
Located shortly after the Segunda Rodilla, the glacier is the main thing that I really want to focus on. Being a glacier, it's condition naturally changes, and it can vary from being extremely straight forward and simple to cross, to being very challenging and downright dangerous. It's very important that you have the experience to read the glacier correctly.Many climbing reports of Iztacchiuatl make crossing the glacier sound like a breeze. You simply put on your crampons and walk across heading towards Ombligo. And for them, it really was that simple, it can be one of the least technical parts of the climb. However, it's not always so easy.
The main difficulty occurs when the glacier is at a lower level. Superficially it almost looks easier and more inviting, however, it's deceptive. Where the snow and ice appears to have melted, it has actually been replaced with black ice, covered with just a thin veneer of sand or scree. Since much of the glacier has melted, you also have to descend much further down into the belly.
The result is that you have a path descending around 50m of elevation, at close to a 50% gradient, that is essentially made of black ice. You will probably make it down, maybe sliding a couple of times. However, getting back up on the return is a different story. Climbing 50m up a wall of black ice, when you are tired from the ascent and the high altitude, is a serious challenge, even if you have the correct equipment. Many people have ended up getting stuck in this situation and have had to be rescued (or worse).
I don't wish to scare you with this, just to highlight the potential danger. If the glacier is full and you can cross to Ombligo without much elevation difference then it is probably fine and straight forward. If the glacier is low (like the photo below) then be extremely cautious. Most guides will actually turn back here or try to find another route; unless you are an experienced mountaineer and really know what you are doing, you should do the same.
Fitness & Altitude
The biggest concern for many people climbing Iztaccihuatl is their fitness and adjusting to the altitude. If you have doubts about either of these, then I would recommend going with a guided tour (see below). You don't want to be running out of energy here solo or suffering from altitude sickness above 5,000m with still quite some climbing to get down.I recommend climbing Malinche or Nevado de Toluca first to get a feel for how you handle the altitude. These mountains are still challenging, but with less risk than Iztaccihuatl. On these peaks you will get a good feel for how well acclimatized you are to high altitude and climbing them will help you acclimatize even more.
At 5,230m, the altitude on Iztaccihuatl is not super dangerous, but altitude sickness is still a real possibility. In any event, you will feel weaker and may struggle to fully concentration due to the lack of oxygen.
If you climb solo or with friends then you need to be fit. You can't rely on anyone else helping to get you down in difficulty - helicopters can not access most of the climb above La Joya.
I have to confess that it worries me slightly when I hear of people needing to start from La Joya or beginning at 2am. If you are with a guided tour and that is their schedule then it is one thing - groups will always go more slowly. But for independent hikers, you are creating extra risk by starting in the dark.
If you are not able to hike to the top and back in a single day (e.g. during daylight hours from 6am to 7pm), then I don't think you should attempt the climb indepedently. Having a good level of fitness will help to protect you against many of the dangers that are always accentuated by fatigue and loss of concentration. Many people overestimate their fitness at these altitudes, and if you have doubts I would strongly consider just hiking the scenic and less technical part instead from Paso de Cortés to Refugio de los Cien.
Maintaining good concentration is important when the trail gets technical
Guided Tours
Finally, there are plenty of Mexican companies that run guided tours to Iztaccihuatl. Again, if you have any doubts about your fitness or experience in judging conditions, particularly on the glacier, then it's prudent to go with a guide.
Different companies offer one or two day ascents. The guides will organise all the permits and provide equipment and they usually camp at La Joya overnight, ready to start very early in the morning, so that they have plenty of time in case the group is slow. The guide will help you navigate the trails in the dark and is aware of the potential dangers along the route.
A small group guided tour at Nevado de Toluca
They should also be experienced in judging the ability of their groups and will advice you on whether it is realistic for you to make it to the top given the trail conditions and your fitness levels. In the event of an emergency they can also obviously help, although bear in mind that even for experienced guides evacuating someone with altitude sickness or injury is complicated in certain places.
I pretty much always hike independently and have done so on Iztaccihuatl as well, I enjoy the feeling of freedom and like to go at my own pace. So I fully undertand why others would like to do the same, but this is one climb where I think a guide can offer a lot.
I don't have any recommendations for companies, but I have heard that most of them are pretty reliable and offer a good service. It's worth doing your own research to find an itinerary that roughly suits your ability.
Having said all this, Iztaccihuatl is still one of the most accessible 5000m+ peaks in the world. It is a great challenge and a really spectacular route which, if you are cautious and prepare well, can be climbed by most people with decent fitness and some hiking experience.
Mexico
