Cycle Touring in Thailand

Cycling in Thailand

Over the past few years I have spent about three months cycling in Thailand, visiting various parts of the country and carefully researching many other regions. This is certainly not enough to make me an expert on riding in the country. But I feel like I have a pretty good handle on what kind of cycling you can expect in different areas and what it is like to ride in Thailand.

In this guide, I will particularly focus on how to maximise the good experiences and minimize the less enjoyable or downright dangerous ones!

Thailand's charm for tourists is well known by now: there are high mountains, beautiful beaches, great rivers, imposing jungle and historic towns. There is also great food, the people are welcoming and there is lots of high quality accommodation.

But as a cycle tourist you will also see another side to the country, away from the crowds. It is often when you ride through the countryside, or show up in a non-touristy town, that you get a more authentic insight into a country. These experiences are one of the special things about cycle touring - and in this respect I found Thailand to be both fantastic and also a little bit scary.

Thailand is a big country, so I won't be covering every single region, but these are a few suggestions of where I think is good for cycle touring, and where is not so good!

One general note before I look at different regions is that, in my experience, the best way to enjoy Thailand by bike is not to try to cover as much distance as possible. Thailand is not really a country where you should have a bucket list of things you want to tick off, and where you hurriedly race from one to the next. The beauty of the country is its relaxed nature, its slow pace of life. Towns and villages often reveal their charm when you stay there longer and explore the surroundings.

My biggest piece of advice for cycle touring in Thailand is to do less. Plan to stay in places for multiple nights and do circular rides and other activities.

Northern Thailand

Thailand's best cycling is in the north. If you are only concerned about great cycling routes then this is the region for you.

However, for most people, choosing where to cycle tour is a bit more nuanced than that. We are not focused solely on cycling, we want other experiences. Also, perhaps what is great for a road biker is not so ideal for a fully loaded cycle tourist or bike-packer. So what exactly does Northern Thailand have to offer?

In short, it is by far the most mountainous part of the country. It is also the coolest region (although often still very warm). The scenery is picturesque with vibrant green jungle, rice fields, tropical plantations, countless waterfalls and plenty of delightful back roads to explore.

Chiang Mai is particularly popular with road cyclists who ride up to beautiful passes like Doi Suthep, Samoeng, Mon Jam and Mae Kampong. From Chiang Mai you can also tackle the very challenging Mae Hong Son route - a spectacular, but challenging ride following the 108 road close to the border with Myanmar.

Chiang Mai is also a great destination for riders who want to base themselves in one city, with great food and to do a series of challenging day rides. However, I'm not convinced it is the best option for cycle tourists.

The city is certainly worth visiting from a cultural standpoint, as the former capital of the Lanna Kingdom, the old town is one of the most impressive in Thailand. However, the roads around the city are busy and the climbs are often steep (gradients commonly above 10%). I planned to stay in Chiang Mai for a while on my first cycling tip to Thailand, but after a few days decided to stay in nearby Mae Rim instead, so I didn't have to battle through 10km+ of dense traffic at the start and end of every ride. I was very pleased with the choice, as the roads around Mae Rim were very quiet and extremely beautiful, but you do miss out on the cultural and gastronomic offerings of the city itself.

East of Chiang Mai, Nan perhaps offers most of the advantages of Chiang Mai, but without the disadvantages for cyclists. Nan is a charming, historic city with great food and has some of the best mountain roads in Thailand. Unlike Chiang Mai, the roads are very quiet and the town still has something of an undiscovered charm (at least among foreigners - it is already very popular with Thai tourists). You can stay in Nan and do some great circular rides, as well as climbing into the spectacular Doi Phu Kha National Park.

From Nan, you can ride north through Pua towards Phayao and Chiang Rai. You can also cross into Laos and head towards the fabulous Luang Prabang. Another option is to follow the Mekong River around into Loei and Issan. Or you can head south through Phrae and Sukhothai into Central Thailand - an area that is great for gravel riding.

The main disadvantage of Nan is that it's slightly complicated to reach. However, these days it's much easier than in the past - there are now daily flights from Bangkok, as well as regular buses from Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

The final area I recommend in the north is Chiang Rai. This is roughly in between Chiang Mai and Nan, and its easily possible to cycle to either of them in a week or less. The Chiang Rai region is famous for its temples and waterfalls, although the town itself is not quite as charming as Chiang Mai or Nan. It is also less mountainous than the other two provinces, but there is still plenty of climbing to be had, as well as fantastic rolling routes.

I stayed in Chiang Rai for a couple of weeks, riding nearly every day, and never got tired of the diverse scenery. You can pass through coffee and tea plantations, pineapple fields and jungle on just one modest ride. In Chiang Mai province, popular cycling routes include the Golden Triangle (where Myanmar and Laos meet), where you can ride along the Mekong River. And there is great gravel riding along the Kok River, which is a lot more hilly than you might expect!

One final note about the north. There is an intense burning season each year from around mid-February to mid-April. Don't visit at this time. Chiang Mai is the most polluted city in the world during this period, and the rural areas are not much better. It's not fun for cycling. You can't enjoy the scenery because it's all covered in smoke, and your lungs will not thank you.

Central Thailand

In contrast to the north, Central Thailand is pretty flat. From Sukhothai all the way down to Hua Hin, there is not much elevation apart from areas close to the border with Myanmar.

The advantage of this is that it means you can cover long distances relatively quickly and stay in plenty of interesting towns. Sukhothai is the closest thing you will find in Thailand to Angkor Wat - a beautiful, sprawling city filled with temples. Nearby Si Satchanalai is simiarly impressive. Further south is Ayttuhaya, which some historians claim was once the biggest city in the world. You could spend days just exploring the hundreds of wats, stupas and royal palaces that are dotted about the town.

Another great destination, a little further west is Kanchanaburi. It is fairly popular with tourists due to its railway bridge on the River Kwai; however, the area around the town is very pleasant for cycle touring. You can either head up to the more hilly Erawan National Park, or go south towards Kaeng Krachan National Park and southern Thailand. Other interesting towns include Lopburi (famous for its monkeys) and Hua Hin, which is a pleasant resort town.

I did a very enjoyable tour around Central Thailand in early 2025, which started in Ayutthaya and visited Kanchanaburi, Kaeng Krachan and Prachuap Khiri Khan. The rides here are mostly flat or gently rolling, but it's still a lot of fun. There are loads of quiet back roads (and gravel trails) in the area, passing through jungle, rice fields and small villages. There are many beautiful rivers, lakes and waterfalls, and it's really easy to find refreshments and accommodation everywhere. This is a great region for cycling if you want a relaxing but fulfilling tour, with loads of cultural interest and little traffic.

Anther advantage of the region is that it is easy to get to, thanks to its proximity to Bangkok. Regular daily trains go north towards Ayutthaya and Phitsanulok (for Sukhothai), west to Kanchanaburi and south all the way along the coast.

The main disadvantages specific to this region are kind of subjective ones. Firstly, as I mentioned, it's quite a flat region. You can find rolling and even hilly routes west of Kanchanaburi and around Kaeng Krachan, but there are no long mountain climbs here. Secondly, it's hot here, if you don't like riding in temperatures that often exceed 30°C, then you are better off staying in the north.

Southern Thailand

The South of Thailand (here I am basically referring to south of Prachuap Khiri Khan), is best known for its islands and beach resorts, but it's also a popular area for cycling. Round-the-world or long distance cycle-tourists often ride north to south through Thailand, continuing into Malaysia. It's a tempting option, because the flat terrain allows you to cover long distances here.

Personally, although the south has some great cycling routes, I don't really recommend it in general. The exception to this is if cycling is not your main aim, and your priority is to visit good beaches.

It's not so much that Southern Thailand is bad for cycling, it's just that it has some drawbacks in comparison with the areas mentioned above. Firstly, the towns are less interesting than further north. Places like Phuket and Koh Samui are very touristy and lack the history and depth of culture. It's also quite flat and lacks diversity in scenery. There are some hills towards the border with Myanmar, but you will mostly be riding through flattish palm and rubber plantations. The main attraction is the beaches, but (apart from on the islands) there are few suitable roads for riding along the coast itself.

The issue with cycle touring in the south is that, most of the time you will just be riding from one resort to the next, through fairly similar scenery. This can still be enjoyable, but you might as well just pick one resort (I would recommend Koh Lanta or Trang) and do circular rides. That way you can do nice cycling (without panniers). You can get to know the area better, ride out to the quieter beaches, and also be more flexible when the weather is very hot or wet.

One relatively popular route is to cycle between Bangkok and Phuket. This is kind of appealing because you can easily get international flights from both locations. The cycling is mostly pleasant (although at times you will have to go on main roads) and you can stay at some nice resorts. Like riding in the south of Thailand in general though, I just don't think it is as enjoyable and rewarding as exploring further north.

Eastern Thailand

Eastern Thailand does not really appeal to me for cycle touring. Which, again, certainly doesn't mean that it can not be enjoyable.

The North of Issan, including Loei, Chiang Khan and Nong Khai is the most interesting part for cycling. The riding here is mostly close to the Mekong that straddles the border with Laos, and the towns have a certain charm. Issan cuisine is also highly regarded throughout the country.

It's a bit too flat though for my liking, and the cities lack the same cultural interest as elsewhere in the country. It might be nice to include on the way through to Laos.

Further south in Issan is similar, but with even less diversity of scenery and with mostly modern towns and cities. The main advantage is that there are loads of quiet small roads and gravel trails to explore and to stay off the main roads.

The areas south and east of Bangkok towards Pattaya or Cambodia are generally not good for cycle touring. The main roads are busy and dangerous, and it is often hard to avoid them - it's not a great region for hopping from place to place. You can do some nice riding around Pattaya or Trat, but it's better to do a single center stay here.

One route that might appeal to cycle tourists is to ride from Bangkok towards Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat), and then maybe onto Vietnam, finishing in Ho Chi Minh City. I can see the appeal of this: you get to visit three countries in a short space of time, including two great cities and the incredible Angkor Wat. Just bear in mind, that the cycling is not the most interesting here and can be risky. Plot you route extremely carefully (you should go off-road at times), or you may end up on some very dangerous roads in Thailand and Cambodia.

Roads & Traffic

I apologise in advance, that this will be quite a long section. But I think that it is important to discuss Thailand's roads in quite some detail.

First of all, there is a huge quantity of well-paved roads throughout Thailand, as well as many gravel trails with a good surface. The asphalt surfaces are typically very smooth and can be ridden on any kind of bike you wish. Minor roads are sometimes paved in concrete, but these are also smooth enough to ride on a road bike. I tour here with 38mm tyres so that I can take gravel paths and the occasional single track, and have never been lacking for grip or comfort.

In recent years a few cycle lanes have appeared, particularly in central and southern Thailand. These are often alongside main roads in relatively touristy areas.

When riding through Thailand it is essential to make full use of these paved back roads and cycle lanes for reasons I will explain...

Road Safety

In short, Thailand's roads are not safe. In a 2023 report by the World Health Organization, Thailand's roads were ranked the 9th most dangerous in the world. You can look up the statistics, but they are sobering reading. Many cyclists have been killed in recent years, including experienced long-distance cycle tourists. So are Thailand's roads simply too dangerous for cycle touring?

Well, obviously I don't think so, since I have spent months riding around the country. I have found safety on Thai roads to be quite enigmatic. For the vast majority of the time it is an absolute pleasure and hugely enjoyable to cycle in Thailand. Most cars are considerate, there is little road rage and there is certainly not the kind of animosity towards cyclists that exists in some Western countries. The problem is, that although most of the time it is great and feels extremely safe, when you encounter dangerous situations they are typically very dangerous. The road infrastructure in Thailand is designed for high speeds but not safety.

I have thought a lot about the risks of cycling here, trying to figure out exactly what makes Thailand's roads so much more dangerous than those in other countries in South-East Asia. I want to know, so that I can try to limit my exposure to such scenarios.

A closer look at the statistics reveals that over 80% of serious road traffic accidents involve motorbikes. Many Thais ride without a helmet or any kind of protective clothing. A lot of accidents also happen at night and with alcohol or drugs involved. So, straight away there are obvious things you can do to reduce your risk. But these things all happen in neighbouring countries as well. It still doesn't explain why Thailand's roads are more dangerous than those in the Philippines, Vietnam or Indonesia.

From my observations, it essentially comes down to two things. The road infrastructure and the nature of the driving.

As I mentioned, Thailand has a lot of good quality roads, but the way they interact is often dangerous. One example, that is a significant cause of accidents is cars or motorbikes doing u-turns on highways. There are very few flyover bridges, underpasses or roundabouts in Thailand. To cross a main road with a central reservation from a side road, you have to join the main road, move over to the fast lane, do a u turn to go the other way on the highway, and then turn off to continue on the original road. Aside from the dangers of doing a u-turn on a highway, you frequently end up in a situation with stationary traffic inches away from the fast lane.

Other issues include poor lighting, unexpected junctions, parked vehicles, lack of slip roads and unclear signage. The crux of the issue is that the roads are in good enough condition to drive at high speed, but the rest of the infrastructure is not designed for that.

The general standard of driving is poor, although, I wouldn't say that Thais are more or less skilled than other South-East Asian drivers. The big difference is that people in Thailand tend to drive much more quickly. Trucks, pick-ups, motorbikes, buses all move at considerably higher speed than in places like Vietnam or Philippines. So when they end up in dangerous situations, there is less time to react and the consequences are more catastrophic.

As a cyclist, the best thing you can do to improve your safety in Thailand, is to ride on roads where traffic does not go quickly. I understand this is a bit of a vague statement, so I'll give a few examples of what I recommend avoiding.

The most dangerous roads in Thailand are those between towns and cities that have one lane in each direction. Some of these might look quite innocuous on a map, and are tempting to use as they are the most direct route, but I strongly recommend avoiding them. Examples of this road are the 1095 between Chiang Mai and Pai, or the 3259 in Chachoengsao Province. These kind of roads are reasonably busy, with cars and trucks driving extremely quickly, overtaking dangerously and cutting corners.

Larger highways with multiple lanes are arguably a bit better, as they have a wide hard shoulder and cars can overtake more easily. However, I also recommend avoiding these as they are still very dangerous, and are not enjoyable for cycling anyway.

In general, avoid direct routes between towns - often long straight roads. Sometimes this might mean taking winding back roads, or the odd gravel trail, even if it adds 5km or 10km onto a short section. But just do it - it will be much more enjoyable and much safer. Check out my tour to Central Thailand for examples of the routes that I researched and rode and consider to be relatively safe.

Cycle tourists often want to cover as much distance as possible in a day, but Thailand is not the country to do this. Plan to add at least 25% every day to the distance that Google Maps will give you between destinations - sometimes more. If you stay on the more circuitous back roads you will encounter far fewer vehicles. Those that you do see will likely be driving more slowly due to both the nature of the road and the fact that they are more likely to be on a short distance trip.

Inevitably at times you will have to ride short sections on more dangerous roads, and you will probably have to do some dangerous U-turns. It's a risk that you have to be prepared to take when riding in Thailand, but you can really minimize it by planning your route carefully.

I don't want to over-emphasize the danger, because Thailand can be a fantastic country for cycling, and you can ride beautiful routes where you will only see a handful of cars all day. Just do your due diligence!