Cycling Georgia: Martvili & Gelati

This is the third of three parts detailing my cycle tour around Georgia's Upper Svaneti in July 2025. Here are links to Part One and Part Two.

When planning this trip, I had considered returning from Jvari to Kutaisi in one day. The main aim had been to cycle through the Upper Svaneti, and I saw this section more or less as completing the circle back to Kutaisi.

In the end, however, I decided to spread the ride over two days, as well as including an extra day hiking around the monasteries of Gelati and Motsameta. I am really pleased I chose to spend more time here, because the riding was some of the best of the holiday.

From Jvari I cycled to Martvili, where I stayed for one night before continuing to Kutaisi. This more relaxed schedule enabled me to take very quiet back roads and explore some fantastic trails; it also helped me to deal with the heat, which again was well in excess of 35°C.





The ride from Jvari began by following hilly roads through the villages of Kukheshi, Lara and Medani. This was a really beautiful section with walnut, fig and hazel trees as well as a few small vineyards. There were many cows and pigs in the road, staring intruigingly as a trudged past. The gradients were mostly gentle and were fun to ride as the surface transitioned from good paved road, to stony tracks and back to paved roads.

Another scenic section began after around 23km, where a gravel road ran alongside the Ochkhomuri River, whose cool water was welcomingly refreshing in the summer heat.



Shortly before the end of the ride, I passed the Martvili Canyon. There was a bit more traffic on the road here, as it is a major tourist destination. Daytrippers come from Kutaisi (and even from Batumi) to take a short boat ride along the impressive clear waters of the canyon.

I had considered stopping here to check it out, but after further research, it didn't look like the kind of thing that appealed to me, as it seems to be quite a passive observing experience, rather than a more adventurous activity.

From the canyon it was only a short distance to the town of Martvili, where I stayed in a guesthouse, on the eastern side of the town.

Martvili

Martvili is a small and quiet town which sprawls out from a central square. I had an excellent meal in Katkha restaurant, whose cool basement provided welcome respite from the oppressive humidity.

When temperatures cooled in the evening, I hiked up the road to the Martvili Monastery complex. This was a short walk through pleasant oak forests, but there is also a charming cable car that you can take if you are running low on energy!

The monastery area was extremely beautiful, with various churches dating from the 10th - 17th centuries. The hilltop location was originally a pagan sanctuary, focused on the worship of a giant oak tree that was located there. It became a monastic complex following Georgia's adoption of Christianity in the 7th century, and in later centuries became well known for its written works and scriptures. The churches also contain fantastic frescoes dating from the 14th and 15th centuries.



The next day was also very hot, and the 60km ride to Kutaisi ended up being tougher than I had anticipated. Shortly before reaching the town of Khoni, I turned off on to a scenic track, which lasted for about 3km before turning into a superb paved road.

The road was extremely quiet as it snaked its way through very picturesque scenery and included a steep climb from Udzlouri, followed by a great descent down to the junction with the Kutaisi - Tsageri road.



The next section on the main road was not the most enjoyable. There were some fast overtaking cars, and the broken road surface made it a bit hazardous at times. This route connects Kutaisi with attractions like Prometheus Cave, Tskaltubo and the Okatse Canyon and so is particularly busy on weekends.

I was pleased to turn off just before Tskaltubo,which is a popular spa town, joining charming back roads, which I followed most of the way back to Kutaisi. This route followed minor roads and a few stony trails through the Satpalia Nature Reserve - an area known for its dinosaur footprints.

I only joined the main road 3km from Kutaisi, and rode cautiously through the traffic to my hotel (Hotel Balcony), where my bike box and extra bags were awaiting me.

Kutaisi & Gelati

I had a couple of nights in Kutaisi and my only plans were to eat a lot more tasty food, and to do a hike around the Gelati and Motsameta monasteries - a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site.

I have included the hike as a loop on the route above, I took a Bolt from Kutaisi to Gelati monastery and then hiked back to the hotel via Motsameta.



Gelati monastery was under restoration work in summer 2025, so it wasn't possible to visit the entire site, but I was still able to enter numerous churches (which were completely empty), as well as appreciate the magical mountain setting.

Gelati was founded by King David (the Builder) in the 12th century, with the aim of turning it into a major center of knowledge, and potential rival to Jerusalem in the East. Sponsorships from the king, combined with a growing reputation, attracted many philosphers and scientists, making it the main center of learning in the Caucasus.

The main church features a beautiful mosaic of King David, while several outlying churches and hermitages contain charming frescoes. UNESCO argues that Gelati is the most powerful symbol of the Golden Age of Medieval Georgia.

From Gelati it was a very scenic walk to Mostameta, with the higlight being the crossing of the Tskaltsitela River and stepped path climbing up to the monastery. Motsameta is visually even more spectacular than Gelati from the outside, given its fortified hilltop location.

It is dedicated to two 8th century martyrs who led a rebellion against Arab invaders, before being captured and killed. Their relics are kept inside the church, which dates from the 11th century and is associated with wish-granting miracles.

From Mostameta, the walk back to Kutaisi partly follows the old railway line and heads through a quarry to the outskirts of the city. It is not the most charming walk in the world, but was very quiet and pleasant enough. It can also be slightly difficult to get a Bolt to come out to the monastery, so is a good option if you don't fancy waiting around.






Back in Kutaisi I went for a fantastic meal at Lilestan Restaurant. The salmon khinkhali, walnut and pear salad and imeruli khachapuri were all absolutely delicious, and reinforced my belief that Georgian cuisine is one of the best in the world!

In the evening I took my bike apart, gave it a quick clean and packed it into the bike box. From Kutaisi I was flying to Almaty in Kazakhstan, where I would spend a few days hiking, before continuing on to Dushanbe for my next cycling tour around the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan.




Overall, this was another fantastic trip to Georgia. The Upper Svaneti was everything I had hoped for; it combined truly spectacular mountain scenery with a fantastic historic culture, that was still very visible in the architecture of the towns.

The hikes around Ushguli and the ride to Koruldi Lakes were particular highlights. The cycling from Mestia to Jvari was my least favourite part, due to the higher volume of traffic, although even that day was still broadly enjoyable.

I was surprised how beautiful and fun the rides were on the first and last days. I had considered these to be something of transition sections to get to and from the Upper Svaneti, but the riding alongside the Rioni River and around Martvili was absolutely fantastic.

Off the bike, the wide array of religious monuments, frescoes, fortresses and stunning architecture meant that there was always something interesting to explore in the towns. While the delicious phkali, mtsvadi, khachapuri, lobio and fresh salads meant that it was always a pleasure to replenish the many calories I had burned on the hilly rides.

My opinion hasn't changed from my previous trip to the region; Georgia is a fantastic country for cycle touring!


Part 1 - Kutaisi & Ushguli

Part 2 - Mestia & Jvari

Georgia Svaneti 2025 Tour Overview

Georgia & Armenia 2024 Tour Overview

Cycle Touring Guides